Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
