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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a simple salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

A Surprise Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The accolade has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small shop securing such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I am truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.